My blog is about my experiences living in Palma, on the island of Mallorca, Spain. It primarily focuses on my discoveries exploring the island
as well as Home Exchanges around Europe. I like architecture, landscapes, beautiful beaches, riding my motorcycle, and taking notice of cultural differences over what I experienced growing up in the USA. I show a lot of photos along with comments, but not the nitty gritty bloody boring detail either! Nor do I write about what I had for lunch today!!
This is all about my transition from an American lifestyle and culture to my newest adventure, life in Spain, in the city of Palma on the island of Mallorca in the middle of the Mediterranean sea!!
I moved from the USA to Cuenca, Ecuador, South America and lived there for 7 years before moving here to Spain in early 2018.
I'll be recapping some of my day-to-day experiences (and mishaps) to highlight what it's like to live here....across the pond...as well as Home Exchange trips to exciting places all over Europe!
This is my simplest blog entry yet!!! 12 minutes of video where I take you around old town Palma, filming the Christmas lights....plus added Christmas music!!!
Or, click on this link. Be sure to expand to view full-screen and have your sound turned on!
Oh BEFORE YOU LEAVE!! While I have your attention!!
Looking to treat yourself to something special and/or gifts for someone? I make 'BATH BOMBS'. They add a touch of luxury and pampering
to your bath!They FIZZ, they MELT, they
RELAX, they MOISTURIZE!!Soak in
fragrances like Lavender, Eucalyptus, Mint, Jasmine, and others.Different sizes and shapes and all nearly
half the price you'd find at 'LUSH' stores.
Details and Prices are displayed at the bottom of each
photo (click on the photo). Instructions on how to order are displayed in the text at the top of the web page. For right now, sales are limited to Mallorca only.
I never heard of Biniaraix (Bee-nee-ah-rah-eech) before. I read about it in the local paper. It's a small hamlet, maybe 550 in population, located between Soller and Fornalutx in a valley of the foothills of the Tramuntana mountain range. Once I read the article, I decided I had to go see it for myself. From Palma it's only about 30 kms (approx 18 miles) away.
It's tucked away, a bit hard to find via the narrow access roads in the area. The locals probably don't want you to know. Many people staying, or living, in nearby Soller or Fornalutx simply walk there. I wouldn't recommend driving a car unless you park it outside of the village and walk in, because the streets are narrow and there's very little in the way of parking. However, a moto-scooter is very viable.
Biniaraix isn't your typical village. There's only a couple of cafes and you probably won't find a supermarket, hardware store, hotel, or pharmacies unless they're hiding in some nook in an alley only the locals know how to find. But, there ARE two churches!!!
It's a hikers paradise as several trails launch from the area. The land surrounding Biniaraix is dotted with beautiful stone homes and grove after grove of lemon and orange trees!
I'm going to let my video do most of the 'talking'. I stuck my GoPro camera to the top of my motorcycle helmet and ventured down whatever road or lane looked intriguing to me.
As I mentioned in a previous blog, it's easy to change your scenery on a whim and not take up your whole day...unless you WANT to! This little jaunt I took was no more than a few hours in duration and maybe 40 miles (round-trip) added to my odometer.
Here's a few photos to whet your appetite before the video where you can ride along with me!
Before arriving in Biniaraix is this local CoOp which sells produce from the local area.
Here's the video I promised!! I hope you enjoy this 16 minute escape including music, still-photos, and commentary. Don't forget tu have your volume turned 'on' and run the video in full-screen mode!!
By the way, if you're interested in viewing any of my past entries about travelling around Europe and where I live in Mallorca, simply scroll down past my signature to the end. There, you'll see 'Blog History'. You can click on any Month/Year to see the titles I published at that time. Simply click on the title you're interested in and it will take you to that page.
I'm frequently asked if I get 'Island Fever'. It's the sense of feeling like you're on a small island with nowhere to go for variation or change of scenery.
The answer is 'No'.
Yes, Mallorca is only 60 miles (100 km) wide and 40 miles top to bottom, and you can get from one end to the other in a little over an hour. But, Mallorca has a lot of variety to keep things interesting, such as more than 4 dozen villages/towns, the mountains, beaches, coves, cliffs, vineyards, farms, castles, fortresses, ruins, outdoor markets, fiestas, and on and on. Plus, it's not like being in Hawaii where you have to fly for hours to reach the mainland. Barcelona, for example, is only a 40 minute flight away.
All that said, sometimes you do find yourself thinking 'I'm bored, what's there to do?' Maybe you don't have a car or motorcycle to go out and explore with. Well, I have an answer for that conumdrum.
Head for the bus station.
I have a motorcycle, but sometimes I'd rather have someone else do the driving. The TIB bus system can take you pretty much anywhere you want to go on the island. Just pick your destination and head out for an afternoon getaway.
Today, I chose Puerto Pollensa. Or, is it Puerto Pollenca? Both are correct. BUT, what is different and most IMPORTANT is whether you're talking about the TOWN of Pollensa or the PORT of Pollensa. As I've stated in prior blogs, many towns on Mallorca have both. The Port of <insert name> is, obviously, the seaside port. However, back in the days of pirates, it was common to build the TOWN inland (many times on a mound or hill) to protect themselves from being immediately ambushed at the port.
Anyhoo, the TOWN of Pollensa is about 4 miles inland (8 minute bus ride) from Puerto (port) Pollensa.
Ok, enough with the education.
I boarded a bus in Palma at 12:45pm and arrived in PP an hour and 15 minutes later after stopping maybe 4 times along the way. The fare for Pensionados (those 65 and over) is 3.25. Standard fare is double that. I'm not telling you which one I qualified/didn't qualify for.....hrrrmmpphh!!!!
I walked about 4 blocks to PP's seaside promenade....a 98% car-free, wide boulevard along the waterfront, lined with cafes, small hotels, shops, benches, bike lane, and pine trees. It was a nice sunny day in late October and VERY quiet primarily due to it being off-season and amid the Covid pandemic.
Unlike the inland TOWN of Pollenca, there aren't many full-time residents in PP. It's primarily a summer getaway for European tourists. And, unlike some other resort towns on Mallorca, it's more family-oriented versus the party-hardy, boozie, rowdy bar scene. Because it's located on a bay, the water is smooth and quiet with very little wind. PP is also well-located for a variety of other activities such as hiking in the Tramuntana mountains (right in its back yard), visiting Cala Sant Vicent just a few miles away, or going across the bay (via miles of bike paths) to the walled old town of Alcudia or Port of Alcudia and its beaches. PP is also the starting point for exploring the jaw-dropping vistas along the peninsula Formentor. Not to be outdone, on the flip side of the bay is the equally stunning Victoria peninsula.
Ok, you can't do all those things in an afternoon trip Dano!!! Yeah, yeah, but you CAN just saunder about, take in the gorgeous views, walk the 'Pine Walk', admire the boats in the marinas, and relax at a seaside cafe with a beer/wine (after all, you're not driving, right?).
After I saundered, I grabbed an outdoor table at a cafe on the promenade and ordered a preset meal which included a spring roll, almond chicken and fried rice with egg, a beer, and ice cream for a total of 9.95. Pssssst...just in case you don't know, everything here (Spain) includes tax...it's not added on after the fact. And, tipping is not a requirement unlike the US of A where you'd be frowned upon if you didn't leave at least 20%!!!!! As a result, 9.95 doesn't become 14.00!!!
My stomach full, I headed back to the bus station and hopped on the 4pm back to Palma. Home by 5:30pm. Nice day. Nice getaway.
But that's not the end of the story.
I asked the bus driver if we were allowed to take bicycles or electric kick scooters (called Patinetes) on the bus. Answer: Yes, they're placed in the storage areas along with luggage in the bottom of the bus. GREAT!!!
A few days later, I took the same trip but brought along my Patinete so I could broaden the scope of my exploration. The first trip I only had my cell phone with me to shoot video, so the quality is not so great. This time, I brought my GoPro camera and mounted it to the front stem of my Patinete so I could bring you along to see the sights of Puerto Pollensa.
I heard the term 'Pine Walk' before but had no clue what, or where, it was. After following the promenade along the bay, I suddenly realized I found the Pine Walk! It's a lovely flagstone path lined with old pine trees and follows the shoreline in a non-commercial area and ends at a military aerodrom installation.
If you visit Puerto Pollensa and look across at a peninsula down the bay, you'll see what looks like a large fortress. That's Villa Sa Fortalesa a 232 estate originally built as a fortress in 1628. It's almost stealth-like as many people don't even know how to get to it and it's not open to the public. Only the rich and exclusive (elusive?) set foot there. In fact, you won't even find much on the internet about it. There's a few days out of the year when the public is allowed on the property but no press and photos are not allowed. That said, it can be seen by BBC viewers as it's been used extensively in films/television. It was also the location of Rafal Nadal's recent wedding.
I ended my afternoon getaway like I did on my previous visit...a late lunch at the same cafe fronting the promenade, consisting of a big burger, heap of fries, and an Americano coffee for 8.00. Quite reasonable for a waterfront cafe and drop-dead gorgeous view!!
I was back home in Palma by 5pm!
Watch the video I took during both of my visits to see what a few hours, afternoon getaway can be for you!! There's snippets along the way on the bus, still photos, moving shots from my GoPro as well as musical background. How fancy!!! LOL
Don't forget to turn your speakers 'on' and adjust the volume!!
Be sure to watch the video in full-screen mode and something large than a dinky cell phone!!
Villa Sa Fortalesa
Aerial View
Until next time...
Dano
By the way, if you're interested in viewing any of my past entries about travelling around Europe and where I live in Mallorca, simply scroll down past my signature to the end. There, you'll see 'Blog History'. You can click on any Month/Year to see the titles I published at that time. Simply click on the title you're interested in and it will take you to that page.
The old town area is much larger than that of Palma...probably more than double the size.
Clearly, there was a height limit as I didn't see any building higher than 10 stories. That is, until you get out of old town and into the newer more modern areas.
Old town is very well kept with tons of narrow, meandering streets. Back in the 'old days' the streets were built to accomodate horses and carriages...not cars and busses.
The architecture had a very Valencian look...colorful and ornate. Now, that may sound like a dumb statement, but the style in Valencia has a very unique look, different than, say, Madrid and Barcelona. In most of the towns and cities I've visited in Spain, buildings are usually adorned with functional window shutters. But, I don't think I saw one in Valencia. Popular, however, are metal blinds that roll up/down outside of the window by pulling on a strap from inside the home. They're meant to keep the hot sun out, but you can rotate the louvres to expose small holes to let in air. They're also a good security measure if you plan to be away from home long.
Like most anywhere in Spain, you don't find many apartments with dryers. Laundry is hung outside of their windows on scissor extension racks or old fashioned pulley clotheslines...like my mama did over 50 years ago!!!
Monday 8/17 Day 4:
I went to the massive Central Market which was only a few blocks away. It was built between 1914 and 1928 in an Art Nouveau style and covers 8,000 square meters (86,000 square feet).
I noticed the church next door, Iglesia de Sant Joan del Mercat,
was open that wasn’t the day before. I went in and purchased a ticket
packet that covered 3 places, one of which was for the church of San Nicolás de Bari y San
Pedro. I later discovered it was closed today which was good as
that’s where I was headed next.
In lieu of San Nicolas, I opted to go to the city hall square to see the city hall itself and the post
office building as I read they were pretty interesting. The main train station was just a block away, so I checked that out, too. Great architectural gems of Valencia as you'll see in the photos and video.
City Hall
Post Office
Train Station
Valencia is known for its beautiful ceramics.
I wanted to go to the Museum of Ceramics but, guess what, one was closed that day and the
other closed at 1pm so I decided to have lunch and go back to my apartment.
Because of my knee, I utilize elevators whenever I can. Coming up out of the subway, I grabbed an elevator to avoid the stairs-only exit. It went up....half way....and stopped. I waited. Nothing. It was 90 degrees outside and hotter in the elevator. I pressed the intercom button. No one responded. I pressed the alarm button and heard it ring. I waited. Nada. I kept ringing the alarm button at regular intervals. No response. I called 112 (like 911) from my cell and they said they would send someone to "rescue me". I thought I would soon hear sirens, but they apparently contacted an elevator technician and sent him my way. Within a few minutes, someone was on the speaker asking me if I was okay (several times) and soon I heard voices below me which meant someonee was working on getting me out. Ultimately, they must've activated some sort of override as my car was lowered a few inches at a time until I reached bottom and they were able to open the elevator door.
I was soaked with sweat from being trapped in that tin can for a half hour! Apparently, there was a power outage that caused the problem. After a few chuckles, I was on my way.
Another FIRST for me! Mark 'trapped in an elevator' off my bucket list!!! 👍
Tuesday 8/18 Day 5:
Once again, I tried to see some ceramics. Some places were only open til 1pm so I had to move fast. I took the 150 bus 30 minutes to the outskirts of Valencia to a ceramics store that SAID they were open until 1pm. After I got off the bus, I walked about 8 blocks in the hot sun to their location. They were closed. I was there at noon.
Instead of taking the bus back, I walked a long way to the train station and rode it back into town then hoofed it (a few times the wrong direction) to see the San Juan del Hospital church which was due to close at 1:30. I arrived at 1:20, exhausted, and saw a sign on the door stating it closes at 1pm. Google was wrong. Or was it? I later discovered I was at the front door of Església de Sant Tomàs y Sant Felip Neri church…San Juan was another 75 ft away!!! Who’d thunk two churches being right next door to one another!!
Oi Vey!!!
Tired and frustrated, I went into a cafe across the street and had a great chicken burger, then walked about 8 blocks to Corte Ingles to buy groceries. No way was I going to lug the groceries back to the apartment, so I grabbed a taxi.
Wednesday 8/19 Last Day
After cleaning my host's apartment, I took the subway to the airport to head home. To my surprise, and delight, I was flying home on a turbo-prop ATR 72 airplane which seats only 68. Cool beans. I love propellor airplanes!!!
So glad to be back home and feel the Med breeze!!!
I hope you enjoy this 11 minute video of my last few days in Valencia! Just click on the video image below, then select 'full screen'.
By the way, if you're interested in viewing any of my past entries about travelling around Europe and where I live in Mallorca, simply scroll down past my signature to the end. There, you'll see 'Blog History'. You can click on any Month/Year to see the titles I published at that time. Simply click on the title you're interested in and it will take you to that page.
As part of my City Pass, I could go to the Hemisferic IMAX 3D theater (opened 1998) located in the City of Arts & Sciences (CAS) complex. I had a 1pm appointment to see 'Dream Big'.
The shape of the building threw me off. To me, it looked like a listing ship. I didn't understand how the layout would work. You'll see what I mean when you see the photos below. What I didn't know, until I Googled the information, is the cover of the cinema looks like the eyelids of an eye. The eyelids can be closed or opened. When they're open, you can see the big ball of the IMAX theater in the middle, which represents the iris.
Let me explain the CAS project. It's located in the former Turia riverbed. The river Turia was drained and rerouted after a catastrophic flood in 1957 where 3/4 of the city was inundated with floodwater. The following year, the city planned to divert the river around the (then) western outskirts of the city which was completed by 1969. But, what to do with the old riverbed? Initial ideas involved an elaborate highway system, but the citizens fought back and wanted green space. In the early 80's a master plan was developed to turn the old riverbed into a 5-mile long (average span of 600 ft from bank to bank) picturesque, sunken park with bike paths, event spaces, active recreation fields, fountains, and many notable structures. Near the end of the park is where the mammoth-sized City of Arts & Sciences was constructed. Its architecture is so unique it's likely the first image you'll see wherever Valencia is referenced.
The Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia (2005)
The PARS is a performing arts center named after Queen Sofia. It's the tallest opera house in the world with 14 stories above ground (3 below). It houses four auditoriums, including a 4-tier opera house which has the third largest orchestra pit in the world, being capable of housing 120 musicians.
The cone houses an elevator to take you down to the mirrored pools and building entrances.
New highrise apartments across the street from the CAS.
L'Umbracle (2001)
It's an open aboretum of sorts featuring plant species indigenous to Valencia, The Walk of the Sculptures, an outdoor art gallery with sculptures by contemporary artists, as well as 99 palm trees, 78 small palm trees, and 62 bitter orange trees.
The Hemisferic on the left
Posers with the Hemisferic in the background.
In the video below, you'll see the inside of the IMAX theater and a short clip of the presentation.
See the 'eyeball' sphere inside?
Seating inside the IMAX theater
Museum of Science (2000)
The exterior design represents the skeleton of a whale. Over 700 ft long, 250 wide, and 175 tall.
L'Àgora (2009)
A covered plaza in which concerts, sporting events, and conventions are held.
Oceanografic (2003)
Designed by an 87 yo architect in 1997, the aquarium complex has the longest underwater tunnel in Europe plus it has the only family of beluga whales in Europe. The complex encompasses 1,200,000 sq ft, contains 11,000,000 gallons of water (sea water pumped from the nearby Malvarosa beach), and 45,000 animals from 500 species. Special tanks and outdoor environments are built to house sharks, rays, ocean fish, whales, seals, tortuga, penguins, crocodiles, flamingos, jellyfish, exotic birds, and dolphins to name a few. You'll see a lot of these in the video below.
I was supposed to go on Monday, based on my City Pass choices, but I forgot and tried to enter on Saturday, the same day I saw the IMAX film. It was 90 degrees out and I was tired from all the walking and baking, so they had pity on me and allowed me to enter.
After spending the day at the CAS, exhausted, I hopped a bus to head back to the apartment. Somehow, I goofed on the directions and ended up in a place I didn't intend. But, I saw a couple of cool things and snapped some pics before getting on the correct bus in the right direction.
Hmmmm...a bat seems to have significant meaning.
Of what, I don't know.
A park chocked full of these gnarly trees
I wanted to eat out for dinner. But,I found a lot of places closed at 8:30...odd for Saturday night. Couldn't find any grocery stores open either. Only found one café to have dinner outside but I was forced to listen to 3 guys arguing at the next table over.
Sunday, Day 3
I pretty much stayed in for the day but did go out to try to find groceries. I was told of a couple places that 'should' be open. I took the subway to go to Corte Ingles (a massive dept store) because, online, it said it was open...but it was closed. Dog tired, I walked several blocks to a small mom/pop tienda and got a few things then schlepped back to apartment....wiped out.
So, here's the video you've all been waiting for! HA!!! Enjoy 23 minutes of footage, photos, and music while visiting the IMAX Hemisferic and the aquariums at Oceanografic!!
Click on the video image and don't forget to expand it to full screen...don't wanna miss all the fishies!!
By the way, if you're interested in viewing any of my past entries about travelling around Europe and where I live in Mallorca, simply scroll down past my signature to the end. There, you'll see 'Blog History'. You can click on any Month/Year to see the titles I published at that time. Simply click on the title you're interested in and it will take you to that page.
Another Home Exchange trip! YEA!!! Due to Covid-19, the last trip I got in before the lockdown was Cologne, Germany in early March. Since then, I've had 7 cancellations. Finally, I was able to escape to Valencia, Spain for 6 days!!
With my island resident discount, my airfare on AirEuropa was only $32 round trip. Yes, you read right, so close your jaw! And, as usual, before travelling I purchased a 'City Pass' that covered all transportation (bus, light rail, subway) for 5 days, plus discounts to various venues (some were free) and entrance to the City of Arts & Sciences complex...all for $73.33.
My flight left at 7am which meant I had to get up at 4am. I was off the plane and in the terminal by 8am, but the tourism office, where I needed to pick up my City Pass, didn't open until 8:30am. I waited a half hour, got my pass and was on my way.
Even though the flight was short (45 mins), by the time I took the train and walked to the apartment, I was uh-pooped. I unpacked and laid down for a nap for a few hours before setting out to see what I could see in the remainder of the day. Unfortunately, the apartment didn't have internet which meant I could only use my cell phone for any interweb services.
Valencia
Valencia is the 3rd largest city in Spain, after Madrid and Barcelona, with a population of about 800,000 in the city proper (double that of Palma, where I live). The Port of Valencia is the 5th busiest container port in Europe and the busiest container port on the Mediterranean Sea. The historic center, or 'Old Town' is huge and, aside from the beaches and the City of Arts & Sciences (CAS), everything you want to see and do is in this area.
My Home Exchange apartment was located in the center of old town on one of the many 1-lane-wide meandering streets. Located on the 6th floor and having a nice sized patio/balcony, I was able to enjoy the nighttime views and the air cooling down from the 90 degree daytime temps.
My Home Exchange apartment building
I love the artistic ironwork of the streetlamps throughout old town
And, I LOVE Gargoyles!!!
Everywhere I turned, there was another church
Commercial Trade building
View from my Home Exchange apartment building
In the16 minute video below, I'll take you through the Llotja de Seda (silk stock exchange), the Cathedral, a Basillica, around a wonderful fountain, including still photos and end at one of the massive, ancient city gates!! But first, here's some tidbits of info about the some of the things you'll see:
The Cathedral
The Cathedral was consecrated in 1238 but construction went on for centuries which explains why there's a mixture of artistic styles from Gothic, Baroque, Romanesque, etc.
Basilica
Mare De Deu
Built in the mid-1600's it is located right next door to the Cathedral.
Torre del Micalet
The bell tower to the Cathedral was originally a free-standing tower. Construction started in 1381 and ended in 1429, though modified several times due to fire and the extension of the central nave which physically connected it to the Cathedral.
La Lonja de la Seda
Built between 1482 and 1548 it was a civil building used to conduct trade and hammer out contracts with merchants. In subsequent times, it became known as the 'Silk Exchange'.
Torres de Serranos
One of the twelve gates that formed part of the ancient city wall, built between 1392 and 1398, it is in remarkable condition some 600+ years later! It was the main entrance to the city and it was originally built with a defensive function. From 1586 until 1887 the towers were used as a prison for nobles. The perimeter walls were torn down in 1865 but these towers were preserved.
San Bartolome Tower
Built in 1239, it is the only remaining part of a church it was once attached to. In 1936, during the Spanish Civil War, the church was set on fire. In 1944 it was demolished and so, too, was the destiny of the tower. However, before the tower could be destroyed an agency of arts and culture stepped in and saved it.
Don't forget to click the 'box' in the lower right corner to expand the viewing area to full-screen!
Stay Tuned for Day 2 & 3 coming up next!!
Dano
By the way, if you're interested in viewing any of my past entries about travelling around Europe and where I live in Mallorca, simply scroll down past my signature to the end. There, you'll see 'Blog History'. You can click on any Month/Year to see the titles I published at that time. Simply click on the title you're interested in and it will take you to that page.
(Pieces and Parts extracted from SeeMallorca.com): Deia is an idyllic village of green-shuttered, honey-coloured houses that has become a millionaires' hideaway in the Tramuntana mountain range. Although it could have been just another pretty Mallorcan village in the west of Mallorca had poet and novelist Robert Graves not decided to make it his home. With a population that hovers around 700, the village is still very much an artist’s town with a number of art galleries and gift shops, along with a good selection of restaurants. It's also a popular place for cycling and hiking enthusiasts to base themselves.
Here's a photo of the town, built on a mound, but there's more to see in the video below.
Cala Deia
Down the (steep) slope from Deia, at the waters edge, is Cala (meaning 'Cove') Deia. Accessible by only one, narrow, winding/hairpin-turns road or a stone trail, you'll find two charming, rustic restaurants, a rocky beach, a boat ramp with lots of kayaks and dinghies waiting to be taken out into the stunning surroundings of the cove and those lucky enough to find parking so they can swim, sun, snorkel, and dine.
This is where I chose to snorkel with my new GoPro underwater camera mounted to a short hand-held pole. At this time of year, you can walk into the water without hesitation.
Here's a few photos I took while there, but there's MUCH more to see, above and below water, in the video below!
Sa Foradada
Meaning 'pierced rock', this peninsula is one of the more famous on Mallorca due to the 50+ foot gaping hole in its center near the tip. Down the road a bit from Deia, the peninsula extends from the estate Son Marriog and you can only access it by foot (with prior permission) or by sea. At the end, for a real treat, there's ONE open-air rustic restaurant on the cliff overlooking the Med Sea. Those rich enough to have a boat can anchor, order a pick-up to shuttle them in, and enjoy some paella and wine and soak up the scene.
On the other hand, back up at the top near the main road is the 'Mirador (meaning lookout) Sa Foradada' where you can grab a table and have some light food and beer and awe the peninsula and yachts from high above.
Here's the video I promised, of underwater and above-water scenes in and around Deia. Click on the vido image to run, then click to make full-screen (usually lower right corner).
By the way, if you're interested in viewing any of my past entries about travelling around Europe and where I live in Mallorca, simply scroll down past my signature to the end. There, you'll see 'Blog History'. You can click on any Month/Year to see the titles I published at that time. Simply click on the title you're interested in and it will take you to that page.
