June 26, 2021 (Saturday)
My first full day in Berlin. My usual approach is to take the double decker HoHo (Hop On Hop Off) tour bus to get a sense of the layout of the city as well as pick places I want to go back to. Being 'Mr Organized', I always do some research before my trip and create an Excel spreadsheet (those that know me, STOP LAUGHING!!) of all the things I want to see and do and, naturally, I assign them to a category (ie; museum, plaza, theater, park, restaurant, bar, etc) so I can sort them together. TMI already?
As it seems with many of my trips, I encounter some hiccups where I wonder 'what were they THINKING?'. This trip was no different. Besides the City Pass (which provides unlimited use of transit and discounts to various venues) I also puchased a combo ticket for the HoHo and a 1 hour boat tour. But, NOWHERE on my confirmation email or printed ticket did it say WHERE TO GO to catch the HoHo!!
When I arrived at the airport, I saw a red HoHo bus pass by the terminal so I decided I should go there. Once there, could I locate a sign indicating where the stop is....where to stand??? Nope. I asked someone and I was told it was down there. Went there. Nada. Finally, I went into a hotel and asked the front desk clerk...'oh yes, it's right outside our door'!! GREAT....thanks so much for the SIGN!!!
The red HoHo bus arrived and I hopped on. The driver just waived me through when I motioned to scan my ticket. During the tour, I noticed at each stop there was nary any signage indicating it being a HoHo stop.
I got off at the last stop, at the Mercedes Arena center, which was next to one of the rivers and I noticed tour boats were departing from there. I THOUGHT maybe my boat stopped there. The reason I didn't know was because THERE WAS NO NAME OR DIRECTIONS ON MY RECEIPT OR TICKET FOR THE BOAT TOUR!!! I hung out about 1/2 hour but no boat arrived...at least, not mine. Idiot me read the posted sign stating it departs at 1:20pm but that was from the STARTING POINT. Who knows how much longer it would be before it would arrive at THIS point. I decided to just bag it.
As I was leaving the MB Arena area, along came another red HoHo bus and it was then I realized I had been on the wrong one in the first place because the name on it matched what it said on my ticket!! LOL Gimme a break, they were both red busses and had their names scrawled in similar yellow color. Lo-n-behold here came the bus company I was SUPPOSED to be on in the first place, so I hopped on!!
Here's some of what I saw along the route.
Victory Column
Inaugurated in 1873, it commemorated victory over previous wars. Victoria, at the top, is known as the goddess of victory. At 220 feet high, you can climb the 281 steps of the tight spiral staircase to a viewing platform. I didn't.
Town Hall opened 1869, Mayors office
Altes Museum
Opened 1925
Altes Stadhaus
Old city hall, opened 1911, now used by Senate
Berlin Palace
A former Royal Palace from the 15th century. It was damaged during WWII and later demolished by order of the East German Socialist Party in the 1950's. It consumed 19 tons of dynamite to do so. The construction was so solid, the dome and its entire mount remained intact even after the rest of the building fell to the ground. In the early 60's and 70's two new modernist buildings were constructed on the site. But in 1990, after the German reunification, asbestos was discovered. The government decided in 2003 to demolish the buildings and leave the area as park land. Demolition was completed in 2009. From 2008 - 2013 the area was nothing but a grass field. In the end, it was decided to rebuild the palace facade like it looked before, but the interiors would be of modern designs that would accommodate its new function as a cultural museum and forum. Now known as the Humboldt Forum, what you currently see was completed in 2020.
Brandenburg Gate
Built in 1791 (230 yrs old). In 1961 when the Berlin Wall was built, it passed directly in front of it, making it impassable. In 1987 President Reagan addressed the West Berliners at the Brandenburg Gate and sent the famous message to Mikhail Gorbachev .."tear down this wall".German History Museum
Humboldt University
Kaiser Wilhelm Church
Opened in 1895 it was nearly destroyed in a 1943 bombing. The modern belfry (on the left) was added in 1963. A new church was built at the rear of the ruins. Berliners were adamant the old church not be torn down so it would be a reminder of the war. The (tear down) plan provoked a public outcry in which the ruined tower was characterized as the "heart of Berlin".
If there's a boat tour offered, I usually do that, too.
I asked the HoHo bus driver where the boat tour (associated with the HoHo and sold as an add-on) launched from and it was just 3 stops away. Good, I'm back on track.
But wait....
At that stop, I approached a boat company with a name that seemed to ring a bell to me. I explained my situation and showed her my email and voucher. She scanned the code. Nope. But, neither one of us knew where I should be. I had tried calling the customer service number earlier, but there was no answer. She was very kind and gave me a ticket anyway and I enjoyed a 1 hour cruise on the river Spree.
Bundeskanzleramt
The equivalent of the White House where Angela Merkels' (Chancellor) offices are located. Opened 2001.
The two pedestrian bridges crossing from one side to the other symbolize the reunification.
See the reflections in the glass?
Reichtag
Home of Parliament. Opened 1894, severely damaged in 1933 after being set on fire. Fell into disuse after WWII until 1960 when it was partially refurbished. Wasn't fully reconstructed until 1999. However, the original cupola (dome) was not reconstructed as it once was. Instead, a glass dome was erected with a spiral ramp inside and is open to the public. Providing 360 views the public can also see down into the parliament chambers below. The dome symbolizes reunification and transparency of the government.
Haus der Kulturen der Welt
(House of World Cultures)
Built in 1957, a gift from the US. In 1980, the roof collapsed, killing one and injuring numerous people. The hall was rebuilt in its original style and reopened in 1987 in time for the 750-year anniversary of the founding of Berlin.
We got MOONED!!!
I was tired from baking in the sun (about 86 F) but when I got
off the boat, I realized I was just a few blocks away from the TV
tower. 'Do I reallllly want to walk
over there?' (I said to myself), plus another 50 yards to the base of the tower? Gawd….I figured I should take the opportunity since I was already in the area.
I stopped into the Marienkirche for a few minutes, if only just to get out of the sun.
Then I shuffled over to the Neptunes fountain and sat for a while....in the middle of a huge plaza with no shade.
The Neptune Fountain in Berlin was built in 1891. The four women around him represent the four main rivers of Prussia at the time the fountain was constructed: the Elbe, Rhine, Vistula, and Oder. 59ft in diameter and 33ft high. It was formerly located at the Berlin Palace but when the palace was demolished, the fountain was moved to the present location.
I mustered up the courage to drag my butt another 50 yards to the base of the TV tower. I dreaded a long set of stairs leading up to somewhere around the base.
There were NO signs (that I could see anyway) that
pointed where to go to enter the tower. Do you see a trend here? There were many other venues around the base adding to the confusion. I went to what looked
like a ticket trailer with 3 cashier-type windows. After a bit, I realized I was in line for a
Covid test!! So, I walked around the
base this way…nope. Back
track. Take that elevator to the
upper level…nope…out of order. Up that long set of stairs I'd been dreading (due to one of my knees being bone on bone) and entered what
appeared to be the welcome center…nope…gotta go down (those same stairs)
and around. Did that...to another
entrance. Nope, keep going all the
way around (almost to where I had gone before). THERE it was. I was sweating profusely.
There was no queue but staff was there to ‘check
me’. Have I been vac’d? Yes, showed them. Latest antigen? Yes, showed them. Gotta wear a mask. Also, I needed to download a tracking app ‘Luca’ and register my info, where I’m staying, etc. Then, scan a QR code. THEN I could go in and pay for my
ticket. Got the ticket. Then I had to climb more
stairs (no elevator in a modern building?) that branched off in multiple directions some of
which were roped off. I chose one to the top level. Nope can’t get to the
ticket reader that way, gotta go all the way around the other way to reach
it. WHY didn’t they cordon off
that path if it led nowhere? GRRR Now, I’m pissed, realllllyyy
sweating, and starting to morph into a hatchet murderer. I was greeted by yet another staff person and told to go up
a small set of stairs to the ticket scanner. 😡 I tried scanning my ticket, but it was the wrong
way. After being corrected, I was
able to get in the elevator. No elevator attendant/operator any more, just a staff person who simply clicks a remote control that instructs
the elevator to go to the observation deck or the restaurant level. It involved SIX people to get to this point!!!
About the TV tower (formally known as 'Berliner Fernsehturm'). Opened in 1969. 1,207 feet tall including antenna. An observation deck at 666 feet and a rotating (twice per hour) restaurant above that. Similar to the Space Needle in Seattle which also has a rotating restaurant and an observation deck but at the 520 ft level (of the overall 605 ft height).
Observation deck guests are allotted 45 minutes which the ‘Luca’ app was
ticking down the remaining time left. Information plaques and aerial images and telescopes were lined up around the entire perimeter.
Neptunes fountain in the center and Marienkirche lower right
Afterwards, I headed to one of the train stations
across the street to head home (6pm). The train services were stalled due to some police activity. I had 4 lines to choose from. The one I was waiting in wasn’t
moving. So, I got off and went downstairs and
over and up to another platform. I determined which direction I needed to head and got on the
train. We were moving. Hmmmm….but the stops didn’t seem
right. I was going the wrong
direction. 😒 I got off and
switched to the other side. Meanwhile, my cell phone was
down to 2% battery so I had to quickly check google maps to determine my
path home.
Back on track (scuze the pun) I got off at the
stop I needed and walked across the street to catch the 147 bus which
stops right out front of my apt.
But, I wasn’t sure which side of the street I should stand on to go
the right direction. My cell phone was now
dead. A 147 bus came and I asked the
driver. He didn’t know. Other guys on the bus chimed in to be helpful. One guy got off the bus to check the
route board but he wasn’t sure. It ended up being 6-10 people debating
whether I had the right bus or not!! I thought, 'what the hell, give it a shot'….I would know within 2-3 stops
anyway. We were all laughing about
it. It was the right one…the bus
stopped smack dab in front of my building!!!
Once inside the apt, I headed straight for the
fridge and a MUCH NEEDED cold beer.
I downloaded my photos (from my cell) and videos (from my GoPro). I had taken 121 photos that day! During an initial review, I pared them down to a modest 99. LOL
Some observations from my day:- Like a lot of cities, there is a LOT of graffitti....grossly and insanely so. I don't get it.
- What would normally be maintained by the city, such as medians, sidewalk strips, parks, etc were very unkempt. Lots of overgrown dry weeds with litter mixed in.
- Most likely due to WWII, the re-construction boom that occured afterwards was primarily in the 50's and 60's....the bland era. Everywhere I looked was plain, square, box-like buildings with absolutely NO architectural esthetic. Like a sea of hospitals or prisons. Lifeless. Without personal identity.
- However, mixed in with the uglys and historical buildings were newer, innovative modern buildings that pushed the envelope...primarily from the 1990's and 2000's.
- Almost everyone in the service sector offered to
speak in English, German, or Spanish.
- There's plenty of transportation modes from busses, surface trams (light rail), subway trains, bicycles, taxis, and these two....pedal taxi and electric scooters (even electric motorcycles!). There's at least 4 different brands of electric scooters. All you have to do is use your cell phone to find the nearest parked scooter, scan the bar code to unlock it, and away you go! When you're done, you simply park it (properly like these are...but many times you see them strewn all over) and lock it via the cell phone app. The charge is automatically debited to your account or credit card.
By the way, if you're interested in viewing any of my past entries about travelling around Europe and where I live in Mallorca, simply scroll down past my signature to the end. There, you'll see 'Blog History'. You can click on any Month/Year to see the titles I published at that time. Simply click on the title you're interested in and it will take you to that page.