Cologne, Germany - Part 2 of 3 - Dano Wonka and the Chocolate Factory

Sunday, March 8th, 2020

Ever wonder how chocolate is made?  Cologne has a great chocolate factory and museum all in one!  I took a bus then a tram then another bus down to the waterfront on the Rhine river on a nice sunny day.  The Schokoladen (chocolate) factory and museum was opened in 1993 on the site of the old Customs building, with two modern glass structures encompassing it on both ends.

I paid the $11 entrance fee and was immediately handed several bars of chocolate.  Woohoo!!  You can take guided tours, but I opted to go on my own which was easy as the museum is designed to take you step by step from beginning to end.  I found the entire interactive tour to be very educating.

At the start, you learn where cocoa beans are grown (typically hot/humid regions) such as Ecuador, Brazil, Africa, Mexico.   As you'll see in the photos, the large cocoa pods aren't grown on branches of the cocoa (or cacao) tree....they cling to the trunk!   Inside the pods are the beans which are taken out, fermented (about 1 week) and dried (another 1-2 weeks).  I remember, when I lived in Ecuador, I saw areas where they laid the cocoa beans out on the shoulder of a road, perfectly raked, to dry them from the heat of the asphalt and hot sun.  The entire process from harvesting, drying, and shipping is VERY labor intensive until it arrives at factories where machines take over the roasting, grinding, blending, etc into the final product.

Ready to go inside?

In one of the photo exhibits it shows how the Rhine river rose and temporarily turned the museum into an island 2 years after it opened!

A climate-controled tropical greenhouse showcases plants grown in the regions where cocoa trees grow.
No, those are not cocoa beans...they're papayas!!

THESE are cocoa bean pods!!

After I went through the exhibits showing the history, harvesting, and shipping of the beans, I entered the manufacturing section.  Machines were numbered so you could follow each step of the process to the finished product.

#1 - the roasting machine.

After being roasted and ground, the 'liquor' is mixed by horizontal rotating blades.

Watch this video and you'll get to experience the entire automated process of making a chocolate bar!

The bridge that gives you access to the 'island' where the factory and Olympic museum are located.

Statue of St Nicholas outside the chocolate factory.

By the time I left the chocolate factory/museum it had turned cold and rainy so I headed back to my apartment.  I had noticed a large 'park' near the bus stop so I decided to walk over and see what was what.  Turned out to be a cemetery.  That wasn't so surprising but what fascinated me is it wasn't like any other cemetery I'd ever been in before.  This one was forested like a full-on natural park.

I was intrigued by how intricately landscaped many of the graves were.  

These trees were probably just sapplings when this cemetery was created in the 1940's.

As I walked about, I stumbled upon a large area lined with identical crosses much like a military burial area.  Upon closer examination of many, I realized these were gravesites of common people who lost their lives in WWII....the death years were over and over again....1944 and 1945.  It was heartbreaking to see how young they were when they were killed.

Peter - 17 years old

Heinrich - 12 years old

Hermann - 12 years old

....and on that somber note.....

Next up!!

A train trip to a Castle on a hill above the Rhine!!

Stay Tuned!!

Dano

By the way, if you're interested in viewing any of my past entries about travelling around Europe and where I live in Mallorca, simply scroll down past my signature to the end.  There, you'll see 'Blog History'.  You can click on any Month/Year to see the titles I published at that time.  Simply click on the title you're interested in and it will take you to that page.

Cologne, Germany - Part 1 of 3 - The Massive Gothic Cathedral

SPECIAL....BREAKING NEWS!!!

In case you're wondering why I'm travelling while everyone is supposed to be in lockdown, I'm not (travelling, that is).  I'm actually writing this on April 12th....27 days into the 'lockdown' as a result of the CoronaVirus.  The orders to 'stay in place' came only 6 days after I returned from Cologne!!!


Friday, March 6, 2020

My flight from Palma direct to Cologne was supposed to leave at 8am which meant getting up before the crack of dawn.  Though it rarely occurs at the Palma airport, we were bussed from the terminal across the tarmac to the plane.  We were all aboard and settled in, ready to taxi and take off.  BUT, we sat for an hour on the tarmac presumably due to the affects of a French air traffic controllers strike.

It was a beautiful day and we were lucky to take off over the bay which affords fantastic views.  I presumed we would continue straight out over the sea so I closed my eyes to snooze.  But, we turned and headed across to the other end of the island.  I almost missed the opportunity to take fotos of the Formentor and Victoria peninsulas.  Gorgeous sites!!

Formentor peninsula is the longer one.

Victoria peninsula the closest.
The town of Alcudia in front of the engine.

That's Marseille, France in the upper portion of the photo.

We were being followed by this UFO!!!

Stunning views flying over the Swiss Alps.

There was no jetway at the Cologne airport.  We disembarked via the stairs built into the airplane, then walked across the tarmac, then up stairs into the terminal.  No escalators.  No moving sidewalks.  My knee was screaming at me!  I needed to find the train station which I knew was located in the airport, but were there signs??  Sometimes a sign would point 'that way' and after going 'that way' for a while could I find another prominent sign continuing to direct me?  No, of course not!  So, I asked.  I had to walk to the next terminal and then down a few levels.  When I got there, the escalators were being worked on, so I walked over to the elevators and stood there until I realized they weren't moving either!!!  I took the stairs.

I needed to buy a train ticket to take me into the central station in Cologne.  At the ticket machine, I chose the English language.  Big help THAT was!  In my past profession, I used to DESIGN computer interfaces and one of the most critical requirements was for it to be INTUITIVE!!  This was NOT!!  I tried to find the tourist ticket that allows use of all the transportation systems for XX days for a fixed price.  It didn't exist or I couldn't tell which one it was.  So, I opted to buy a single ticket for now.  To where?  The list of destinations were all in German and I didn't recognize any of them to be the central station so I just selected any ol' ticket and went with that.

The Google maps on my cell phone said I needed train S19 but didn’t mention which platform I needed to go to find it. So, I picked one.  I saw an S19 on the overhead monitor and figured the train that was waiting was S19 and it was 2 seconds away from departing so I quickly hopped on.  I've always had a good sense of direction so I quickly discovered it was not the correct train and I was headed to who knows where and in the wrong direction.  I got off at the next stop.  I switched over to the other side to go back the other direction.  I hopped on S19 but somehow it was the wrong direction going BACK to the airport!!!  I got off again.  In most subways, if you have to switch direction, you have to go down and under and up and over to switch to the other side.  Again, it was all stairs, no escalators, no elevators.  Finally, I got on the S19 going the RIGHT direction.

5 stops later I got off.  Next, I needed to connect to bus 140.  I just missed it so I had to wait 20 minutes for next one in the freezing cold and no shelter.  Every transit system is different in every city.  In Cologne, instead of paying the bus driver, there’s a machine on board to buy your ticket based on your destination.  I was trying to stand and brace myself while doing the transaction while the bus was moving.  At one point he turned a corner and I was flung to the other side and nearly landed on my ass.

11 stops later and a 2 block walk and I arrived at my host's townhouse in the boonies.  Normally, with home exchanges, you don't get to meet your host/guest because they're on the way to your home when you're on the way to theirs.  But, this time, Sonja (my hostess) had an evening flight, so I was able to meet her, enjoy a chat, and a tour of her home.  She lives in a 4-level townhouse with STEEP stairs.  My knee spasm'd with joy!!

In the early evening, I decided to walk to the nearest grocery store which was about 1 km away.  By the time I arrived, I knew there was NO WAY I was going to walk back AND be carrying groceries at the same time.

When I get stressed (like with this travel adventure) I want a booze buzz to relax!  Buying booze, too, is different everywhere you go!!  In this case, the hard alcohol was in a locked display case about the size of a coke machine.  I had to waive somebody down for them to unlock the cabinet and give me what I wanted.  As for groceries, naturally, everything was labeled in German.  I had no idea what I was buying (ie; ingredients) unless it was obvious like ham, eggs, cheese.  I purchased bread and small tubs of what I thought were spreads for crackers and such.  One turned out to be egg salad.

On the corner near the store, I spotted a 'Lime' electric scooter ('Lime' being the company name).  It's one of those that you can rent on the spot using an app on your cell phone.  I decided to rent one to motor back to my apartment with my stash.  It was pretty easy and got me right to my front door.

But....

A 'No Parking' message was flashing on the instrument panel.  I didn't realize the scooters were only allowed to be driven and parked in specific zones highlighted on a map.  I was not allowed to park in the area near my home exchange aparatment!!  Sooooo....I put the groceries in the apartment and drove the scooter to the closest place where I was allowed to park....about 1/2 way back to the store....parked it and hoofed it back to the apartment!!!   Oh well, at least I only had to walk HALF the distance and not carry a heavy bag of groceries!!  Sighhhhhh.

Saturday, March 7, 2020

I took the 140 bus and a train to the central station in the heart of Cologne.  I remember when I first went to Europe 32 years ago and pulled into this massive train station.  When I walked outside, I gasped out loud because the Cathedral was right next door and it's HUUUUGE!!!!  Not exactly your Assembly of God church located at 8^th and Pine in Port Angeles, Washington!!

Here's some stats:

• Completed in 1880
• The cathedral is the tallest twin-spired church in the world
• 474 ft long
• 283 ft wide
• Spires reach 515 ft
• Suffered 14 hits during WWII
• Note:  approx 70% of Cologne was destroyed in the war
• The black discoloration is caused by the sandstone reacting with sulfuric acid during rainfall. The acidic rain is a consequence of air pollution.
• The largest of the 11 bells weighs 26 tons!!

32 years ago, I climbed the stairs (all 500+ ) to the top of one of the spires.  Not THIS time....not with my knee 32 years older!!!

On the plaza in front of the Cathedral is a replica of the finials that top each of the spires.

Located at the very tippy toppy point of those spires!!

Also on the plaza is a pictorial history of the devastation to Cologne and the Cathedral from WWII.
Notice the collapsed bridge.  The new bridge (which looks the same) carries all the trains coming into and leaving the Central Station.



It was an odd feeling realizing this wasn't done by the Germans...
It was US and the Allied Forces!!

Love this front door handle.

Shrine/tomb of the Three Kings (aka Three Wise Men)
Completed 1225
It is shaped like a basilica, made of wood with gold and silver overlay, and decorated with over 1000 jewels and beads.

Tombs of Archbishops

After touring the Cathedral I hunted for a pretzel!!



It was a nice, sunny day...but cccold.
The central train station next door to the Cathedral.

I walked over to the Tourist offices across the plaza from the Cathedral and puchased a 48 hour transit pass for $18.  While there, I checked on a couple other venues I wanted to visit:

Telecommunications tower not open…only Wednesdays.

Teleferico (aerial cable car that crosses the Rhine river) not open…only April to Oct.

Next Up??

I visit the Chocolate Factory!!

Dano

By the way, if you're interested in viewing any of my past entries about travelling around Europe and where I live in Mallorca, simply scroll down past my signature to the end.  There, you'll see 'Blog History'.  You can click on any Month/Year to see the titles I published at that time.  Simply click on the title you're interested in and it will take you to that page.

Huelva and Cadiz, Spain

December 5, 2019 - Punta Umbria, Spain

It was time to head for my Home Exchange arrangement in Punta Umbria, a beach town on the tip of a peninsula about 100 kms from Seville.  After I checked out of my Airbnb apartment in Seville, I headed out to the airport to pick up a rental car and hit the road for PU.

The Avis rental car turned out to be a cool convertible Mini Cooper which I didn’t expect.  I didn't think I would FIT!!!  But, I did, and I LOVED the car, its features, handling, and ride.  The rental cost only $84 for 4 days.  

The drive from Seville to Punta Umbria (PU) was somewhat boring as the topography was primarily flat.  Nada mucho to see.  Most speed limits on the 4 lane divided highway (2 & 2) were 120 kph which is about 72 mph.  But, people were constantly zipping by me easily at 80 or above.   I never spotted ONE police car!!  Side note:  I've noticed in Europe (in general) police aren't ever-present, waiting, lurking to trap you like in the US of A.  Chases are next to non-existent.

When I arrived in PU, I noticed it was deader than a doornail.  I quickly realized it was one of the many beach towns in Spain packed and nearly overrun in the summer, but 90% closed up in the winter.  And, the dominant architecture was very blase 60's.   Uh oh.

The Home Exchange host (who lives in Seville) had pre-arranged for me to pick up the apartment keys from a real estate office.  But, what I didn't know was...they're closed from 2 – 5 for lunch!!  Wouldn’t you know it, I arrived at 3pm.  So, I killed a few hours mindlessly driving around, then by stopping at Mercadonna to pick up groceries.

The apartment was nice and freshly remodelled but small for a 3 BR!!   Clearly, it was designed as a vacation home or a beach rental as there were no personal touches or belongings there.  I took a look around to see what I had to work with.  It was freezing cold when I arrived because all the windows had been left open by the cleaner.  I was provided ONE towel but no soap or shampoo or hairdryer...things that should be standard in a tourist rental.  When I took a shower the next morning, I had to use dishwashing liquid which had been previously watered down to make it stretch.  In the kitchen, there was no salt/pepper, sugar, or ANY spices, no coffee/tea, no cloths to wipe things down, or paper towels/napkins, no hand soap.  But, there were TONS of dishes and glasses...all crammed into the lower cabinets because there were NO upper cabinets.  What's up with THAT??  

I found some portable heaters in the closets.  I knew I was doomed because they were the radiator-looking oil heaters of the same type I (and lots of other fools) had in Cuenca.  They're worthless as they only manage to heat a 2ft perimeter around them!!!  

Alright, okay, I figured I might as well unpack and check my emails.  I couldn't find any info for the WIFI and password, so I called the host.  He informed me there is NO INTERNET at that apartment!!!  He presumed everyone just used their cell phone data plan to get what they needed.  GRRRRRRRRR!!!!

That night, I slept with every blanket in the apt on top of me....all 5.  The next day, I left the heaters on all day (with doors closed to un-used rooms) while I was away.  When I returned, the apartment was barely lukewarm.

I knew after my first night, I had to move.  I wasn't going to stay 3 more nights in a dead town with nothing to do, in a cold apartment with no internet, nor was I going to buy full-sized basic supplies so I could cook/eat, then leave it all behind for future guests, or for the cleaner to take home!

The next day, I drove to another beach community and stopped at a coffee shop where I could access the internet.  I found a nice Airbnb apartment in Santa Maria, just across the bay from Cadiz.  Cadiz was on my list of places to visit someday, so this was a perfect opportunity.  That done, I drove to Huelva and its surrounds in an attempt to find something interesting.

December 6, 2019 - Huelva, Spain

My cute little Mini Cooper rental.
When driving at lower speeds through local coast towns, I put the top down.  It was awesome!

A church in Huelva (population about 145,000) and about the only interesting thing there.

After finding nothing interesting in Huelva, I decided to go see the Nina, Pinta, and Santa Maria.

Muelle de las Carabelas
(Dock of the Caravels)

But, you ask, what is a 'caravel'?  According to Google, it is "a small, fast Spanish or Portuguese sailing ship of the 15th–17th centuries".

This museum, outside of Huelva, Spain, houses identical replicas of Columbus's ships....the Nina, Pinta, and Santa Maria.  Built for the 500 year exhibitions of 1992, they toured Europe AND actually sailed the original route of Columbus's voyage.  Then, this facility was constructed in 1994.  It was here that Columbus originally set sail, outfitted with sailors from the local villages around Huelva.

A statue near the parking lot of the Carabelas.
It made me think of Forrest Gump saying 'buhhh-tocks'.

From there, I drove to the town of 'Niebla', about 20 miles inland from Huelva.  Sitting on a knoll in the center of town is the remnants of a Castillo (Castle) from the 1400's.  A 2-km wall still surrounds the perimeter of the town.

A nest for a BIG bird!!

December 7, 2019 - Santa Maria, Spain

I packed up and left the PU apartment (after notifying my Home Exchange host I couldn't stand to stay there another day) and drove to Santa Maria, about 130 miles away.  I chose an Airbnb apartment in Santa Maria over Cadiz because the cost was much lower and it was an easy hop across the bay to Cadiz whenever I wanted to.

Bullfighting Arena in Santa Maria

I rendezvoused with a rep to let me into the Airbnb apt.  The 2br apt was very nice and in a perfect location, 1 block from the central church square, and 8 blocks to the wharf, and had everthing I needed...including INTERNET!  Cost for 2 nights $107 + 25 clearning + 21 booking fee = $153.

Just an old church around the corner from my Airbnb apartment in Santa Maria.

Ummm....someone is missing.

Maybe stepped out for lunch?

December 8, 2019 - Cadiz, Spain

I walked down to the wharf and took a shuttle boat ($3) across the bay 30 mins to Cadiz.

Not the boat we went on, but very similar.

Arriving at the Cadiz marina.

Here's a little video of the 'cruise' across the bay.

Upon arrival, I met up with the HoHo tour bus.  $20

A telecommunications tower along the waterfront in downtown Cadiz.

First time I"ve seen square rip-rap.

Old town Cadiz is situated within the old walls.

It was difficult to get a good, whole shot of the cathedral because I couldn't get far enough away from it.

Built between 1722 and 1838

The doors to the Cathedral were closed.  It was noon and they wouldn't re-open until 2pm.  So, I paid the $6 entrance fee, which included the cathedral and tower, and opted to climb the tower to kill time.  Instead of stairs, the tower had a spiraling ramp to the top.  I counted my steps...300.

A few stairsteps just before reaching the top.

Looking down at the plaza in front of the Cathedral.

The bells rang when I was up there.  YOWSA!!  LOUD!!!!

After coming down from the tower, I strolled a narrow, packed shopping street.

I came upon a mercado which was lined with outdoor tables and hordes of people enjoying a Sunday afternoon drinking beer and consuming tapas.
Sunny and 64.

Finally got to go inside the Cathedral.

Here's a video of a few scenes around Cadiz.

After touring the Cathedral, I headed back to the port to catch a 4:30 boat back across the bay.  We waited, and waited, and waited.  4:30 came and went.  Eventually, we were informed busses were being sent to pick us up...no reason given as to why no boat.  Cadiz is at the end of a peninsula that arches out into the sea, so taking a bus means travelling to the other end of the peninsula, around the bay and back up the other side to Santa Maria where I was staying.  

The next day, I drove 75 miles back to Seville and to the airport to fly home.  When I checked my Avis rental in, they spotted a gouge in a rear tire sidewall.  Even though not my fault, they charged me $260 for a new tire plus some other fees.  Luckily, I had charged the rental on my Chase Visa card which covered rental car damages.  When I got back home, I filed a claim and Chase ended up reimbursing me.  Cool!!

El Finito!!

By the way, if you're interested in viewing any of my past entries about travelling around Europe and where I live in Mallorca, simply scroll down past my signature to the end.  There, you'll see 'Blog History'.  You can click on any Month/Year to see the titles I published at that time.  Simply click on the title you're interested in and it will take you to that page.

Next up... 
Go North Old Man!
to
Cologne, Germany!!!

Dano