Huelva and Cadiz, Spain

December 5, 2019 - Punta Umbria, Spain

It was time to head for my Home Exchange arrangement in Punta Umbria, a beach town on the tip of a peninsula about 100 kms from Seville.  After I checked out of my Airbnb apartment in Seville, I headed out to the airport to pick up a rental car and hit the road for PU.

The Avis rental car turned out to be a cool convertible Mini Cooper which I didn’t expect.  I didn't think I would FIT!!!  But, I did, and I LOVED the car, its features, handling, and ride.  The rental cost only $84 for 4 days.  

The drive from Seville to Punta Umbria (PU) was somewhat boring as the topography was primarily flat.  Nada mucho to see.  Most speed limits on the 4 lane divided highway (2 & 2) were 120 kph which is about 72 mph.  But, people were constantly zipping by me easily at 80 or above.   I never spotted ONE police car!!  Side note:  I've noticed in Europe (in general) police aren't ever-present, waiting, lurking to trap you like in the US of A.  Chases are next to non-existent.

When I arrived in PU, I noticed it was deader than a doornail.  I quickly realized it was one of the many beach towns in Spain packed and nearly overrun in the summer, but 90% closed up in the winter.  And, the dominant architecture was very blase 60's.   Uh oh.

The Home Exchange host (who lives in Seville) had pre-arranged for me to pick up the apartment keys from a real estate office.  But, what I didn't know was...they're closed from 2 – 5 for lunch!!  Wouldn’t you know it, I arrived at 3pm.  So, I killed a few hours mindlessly driving around, then by stopping at Mercadonna to pick up groceries.

The apartment was nice and freshly remodelled but small for a 3 BR!!   Clearly, it was designed as a vacation home or a beach rental as there were no personal touches or belongings there.  I took a look around to see what I had to work with.  It was freezing cold when I arrived because all the windows had been left open by the cleaner.  I was provided ONE towel but no soap or shampoo or hairdryer...things that should be standard in a tourist rental.  When I took a shower the next morning, I had to use dishwashing liquid which had been previously watered down to make it stretch.  In the kitchen, there was no salt/pepper, sugar, or ANY spices, no coffee/tea, no cloths to wipe things down, or paper towels/napkins, no hand soap.  But, there were TONS of dishes and glasses...all crammed into the lower cabinets because there were NO upper cabinets.  What's up with THAT??  

I found some portable heaters in the closets.  I knew I was doomed because they were the radiator-looking oil heaters of the same type I (and lots of other fools) had in Cuenca.  They're worthless as they only manage to heat a 2ft perimeter around them!!!  

Alright, okay, I figured I might as well unpack and check my emails.  I couldn't find any info for the WIFI and password, so I called the host.  He informed me there is NO INTERNET at that apartment!!!  He presumed everyone just used their cell phone data plan to get what they needed.  GRRRRRRRRR!!!!

That night, I slept with every blanket in the apt on top of me....all 5.  The next day, I left the heaters on all day (with doors closed to un-used rooms) while I was away.  When I returned, the apartment was barely lukewarm.

I knew after my first night, I had to move.  I wasn't going to stay 3 more nights in a dead town with nothing to do, in a cold apartment with no internet, nor was I going to buy full-sized basic supplies so I could cook/eat, then leave it all behind for future guests, or for the cleaner to take home!

The next day, I drove to another beach community and stopped at a coffee shop where I could access the internet.  I found a nice Airbnb apartment in Santa Maria, just across the bay from Cadiz.  Cadiz was on my list of places to visit someday, so this was a perfect opportunity.  That done, I drove to Huelva and its surrounds in an attempt to find something interesting.

December 6, 2019 - Huelva, Spain

My cute little Mini Cooper rental.
When driving at lower speeds through local coast towns, I put the top down.  It was awesome!

A church in Huelva (population about 145,000) and about the only interesting thing there.

After finding nothing interesting in Huelva, I decided to go see the Nina, Pinta, and Santa Maria.

Muelle de las Carabelas
(Dock of the Caravels)

But, you ask, what is a 'caravel'?  According to Google, it is "a small, fast Spanish or Portuguese sailing ship of the 15th–17th centuries".

This museum, outside of Huelva, Spain, houses identical replicas of Columbus's ships....the Nina, Pinta, and Santa Maria.  Built for the 500 year exhibitions of 1992, they toured Europe AND actually sailed the original route of Columbus's voyage.  Then, this facility was constructed in 1994.  It was here that Columbus originally set sail, outfitted with sailors from the local villages around Huelva.

A statue near the parking lot of the Carabelas.
It made me think of Forrest Gump saying 'buhhh-tocks'.

From there, I drove to the town of 'Niebla', about 20 miles inland from Huelva.  Sitting on a knoll in the center of town is the remnants of a Castillo (Castle) from the 1400's.  A 2-km wall still surrounds the perimeter of the town.

A nest for a BIG bird!!

December 7, 2019 - Santa Maria, Spain

I packed up and left the PU apartment (after notifying my Home Exchange host I couldn't stand to stay there another day) and drove to Santa Maria, about 130 miles away.  I chose an Airbnb apartment in Santa Maria over Cadiz because the cost was much lower and it was an easy hop across the bay to Cadiz whenever I wanted to.

Bullfighting Arena in Santa Maria

I rendezvoused with a rep to let me into the Airbnb apt.  The 2br apt was very nice and in a perfect location, 1 block from the central church square, and 8 blocks to the wharf, and had everthing I needed...including INTERNET!  Cost for 2 nights $107 + 25 clearning + 21 booking fee = $153.

Just an old church around the corner from my Airbnb apartment in Santa Maria.

Ummm....someone is missing.

Maybe stepped out for lunch?

December 8, 2019 - Cadiz, Spain

I walked down to the wharf and took a shuttle boat ($3) across the bay 30 mins to Cadiz.

Not the boat we went on, but very similar.

Arriving at the Cadiz marina.

Here's a little video of the 'cruise' across the bay.

Upon arrival, I met up with the HoHo tour bus.  $20

A telecommunications tower along the waterfront in downtown Cadiz.

First time I"ve seen square rip-rap.

Old town Cadiz is situated within the old walls.

It was difficult to get a good, whole shot of the cathedral because I couldn't get far enough away from it.

Built between 1722 and 1838

The doors to the Cathedral were closed.  It was noon and they wouldn't re-open until 2pm.  So, I paid the $6 entrance fee, which included the cathedral and tower, and opted to climb the tower to kill time.  Instead of stairs, the tower had a spiraling ramp to the top.  I counted my steps...300.

A few stairsteps just before reaching the top.

Looking down at the plaza in front of the Cathedral.

The bells rang when I was up there.  YOWSA!!  LOUD!!!!

After coming down from the tower, I strolled a narrow, packed shopping street.

I came upon a mercado which was lined with outdoor tables and hordes of people enjoying a Sunday afternoon drinking beer and consuming tapas.
Sunny and 64.

Finally got to go inside the Cathedral.

Here's a video of a few scenes around Cadiz.

After touring the Cathedral, I headed back to the port to catch a 4:30 boat back across the bay.  We waited, and waited, and waited.  4:30 came and went.  Eventually, we were informed busses were being sent to pick us up...no reason given as to why no boat.  Cadiz is at the end of a peninsula that arches out into the sea, so taking a bus means travelling to the other end of the peninsula, around the bay and back up the other side to Santa Maria where I was staying.  

The next day, I drove 75 miles back to Seville and to the airport to fly home.  When I checked my Avis rental in, they spotted a gouge in a rear tire sidewall.  Even though not my fault, they charged me $260 for a new tire plus some other fees.  Luckily, I had charged the rental on my Chase Visa card which covered rental car damages.  When I got back home, I filed a claim and Chase ended up reimbursing me.  Cool!!

El Finito!!

By the way, if you're interested in viewing any of my past entries about travelling around Europe and where I live in Mallorca, simply scroll down past my signature to the end.  There, you'll see 'Blog History'.  You can click on any Month/Year to see the titles I published at that time.  Simply click on the title you're interested in and it will take you to that page.

Next up... 
Go North Old Man!
to
Cologne, Germany!!!

Dano